On an EZ Wiring harness its easy to remove circuits that you do not need. Make sure the grounds make good metal to metal contact (scrape the paint off, etc). You'll probably have to add some additional grounds here and there. But instead of crimping it I soldered each connection (don't forget some heat shrink before making the connection). So, what I did was to remove the plastic sleeve then use the metal ferrule part. I don't like the look of the colors insulated sleeves on crimp connectors. After its in place, cover all exposed areas with split loom and you're good to go. Once you get the harness where you like it then you can start making connections, etc. Invariably you will need to change the routing of the wires for one reason or other. Get the fuse block in place, route the wires where you think they need to go but don't make any cuts, terminations, or connections. The best advice I got when running a harness is to not make any terminations or connections until you were absolutely sure of everything. just take a small bite at a time and complete it. At this point the project seemed somewhat daunting. the dash panel was left as is and the cab section hung to the right of the column for now. The front group was stuck inside the drivers kick panel, the rear group was started toward the center of the cab. I mounted the panel on the plate under the dash and kinda moved each bundle toward their final destinations. I was forward thinking enough to pre-drill the mounting holes for the panel. I began the wiring by dragging the whole assembly to the truck and getting the fuse panel in position. (No firewall holes, remember?) The plate holds the fuse panel nicely and the bar gives you a nice place to cable tie the harness parts to keep them clean and organized. I got the idea from someone on one of the forums to add a plate/bar that ran across the cab and anchored to the two kick panel braces, from that I attached the fuse panel plate. And, if you have to lengthen some put some type of label on the added wire so next week you can remember what it's connected to. just keep that in mind if you get creative with location of the fuse panel. like headlight and marker wiring up front or maybe out back. if you use a different location you'll probably have to add more wire to certain sections. under the dash, behind or under the seat, on the firewall even, but keep in mind that the lengths of wire are pretty much calculated from under the dash, left of the steering wheel. The mounting location of the fuse panel can be anywhere you want. The bar is handy for wire tying the cables up out of the way. It's nothing but a piece of 1" square tubing with mounting plates at each end that screw to the kick panel braces and a flat plate for the fuse panel. I'm trying to keep my firewall as hole free as possible so I built up a crossbar/plate for fuse panel mounting and wire support. The kit is designed to mount the fuse panel under the dash to the left of the steering column on the firewall. You have this tangled up mess of wire all connected to or thru the harness to the fuse panel. Cut this from my article on wiring, so I wouldn't have to type so much
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